Swiss Raclette

From the Canton of Valais in Switzerland, this is a young cow's milk alpine built for one thing above all: melting. Higher in fat than most of its alpine cousins, which is exactly what gives it that glossy, spoonable pool when it hits heat.

The paste is semi-soft and supple, a pale straw color under a washed orange-tinged rind. Eaten cold off the knife it's buttery and savory with a light tang, a soft mushroomy note off the rind, and a gentle toasted-hazelnut pull through the middle. Put it under a broiler or over a raclette grill and the whole thing changes character: the fat releases, the milk sweetens, and the savory side deepens into something earthy and warm.

Scrape it over boiled potatoes, melt it onto roast vegetables, or thin-slice it onto a sandwich. It's a communal cheese, the kind you pull out when people are standing around the kitchen waiting for the next portion to bubble.