Fourme d'Ambert softened by Vouvray, blending the blue's salt with honeyed sweetness.
French cow's milk blue by Rodolphe Le Meunier, Fourme d'Ambert injected with sweet Vouvray wine. Buttery, honeyed, dessert-worthy. Order online.
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A cow's milk blue from France, Fourme au Moelleux is master affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier's take on the classic Fourme d'Ambert from Auvergne, finished in his Loire Valley cellars with an injection of Vouvray, the sweet white wine of the region.
The paste is dense and buttery, semi-soft under the knife, threaded with steel-blue veins that have soaked up the wine through a second aging. Where a straight Fourme d'Ambert brings a confident, cellar-y blue bite, this one lands sweeter and rounder, the Vouvray softening the piquancy and pulling a honeyed, stone-fruit sweetness through the middle. The finish lingers, salt of the blue and sugar of the wine sitting side by side for a good half minute.
Le Meunier is a fifth-generation cheesemaker and has been named best cheesemonger in France, so a wheel from his cellar is not a workhorse blue. This is a dessert-course blue, the kind of thing you set out at the end of a meal with a glass of Sauternes and let it do the talking.
Semi-soft and yielding, dense and buttery under the knife, with the Vouvray keeping the paste moist and almost spoonable near the veins.
A confident blue without the sharp punch, the sweet wine pulling the piquancy back into balance so the fruit and the funk sit side by side.
Long and sweet on the tail, the Vouvray honey lingers with the salt of the blue for a good half minute.
Buttery cream body from the cow's milk paste, rounded rather than tangy, giving the wine a soft canvas to sit on.
A whisper of browned butter in the paste, secondary to the fruit and the blue.
Damp-cellar and blue-mold notes through the veins, kept in check by the sweetness of the wine.
The peppery bite you expect from a blue is softened here, present at the back of the palate but never sharp.
Natural rind
Thin natural rind, edible but muted, contributing a light cellar note against the sweet wine-soaked paste.
Fourme d'Ambert stands on its own, but the right partners turn a wedge into a moment. Regional pairings first — they were built for each other.
The cheese is already married to Vouvray, so a glass of the same wine brings the pairing full circle. A Sauternes or a tawny Port doubles down on the honey and stone-fruit notes; Champagne cuts the richness for a dessert-course finish.
Fresh fruit and honey echo the Vouvray sweetness threaded through the paste, and quince or fig jam gives the blue a jammy counterweight that lands like a dessert course.
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