Bloomy-rind cheese of cow and goat milk: soft, creamy, gently tangy.
Andante Dairy Duet, a bloomy-rind cow and goat milk cheese from Petaluma, California. Creamy, buttery, lactic-bright. Order online.
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Andante Dairy Duet is a small bloomy-rind cheese from Soyoung Scanlan's Andante Dairy in Petaluma, California, made from a blend of cow and goat milk. Duet is the name and the idea, two milks working together under a soft white rind.
The rind blooms with a downy white mold that's nice and mushroomy, and the paste underneath softens from the outside in. You get a whipped-butter sweetness from the cow milk and a bright yogurty lactic tang from the goat side, layered together rather than one chasing the other. At room temperature the paste turns properly creamy, almost spoonable close to the rind while the center stays a touch more set.
Soyoung is one of the most respected cheesemakers in California, and Duet is a good introduction to what she does, small format, careful hand, quiet flavor that keeps unfolding. Perfectly ripe right now.
Soft-ripened and creamy, with a supple bloomy rind that gives way to a downy, buttery paste that softens further at room temperature.
Gentle and approachable, with the cow's milk lending sweet cream and the goat's milk adding a soft lactic tang on the front of the tongue.
A clean, buttery finish that fades within seconds and leaves the palate refreshed rather than coated.
Bright fresh-cream and yogurt notes throughout, thanks to the goat milk in the blend, with a whipped-butter sweetness from the cow milk.
A light hazelnut-cream note under the rind as the paste ripens, more suggestion than declaration.
A soft mushroomy whisper from the bloomy rind, gentle and clean rather than barnyardy.
No peppery bite or piquancy, in keeping with a young bloomy-rind style.
Bloomy rind
The bloomy white rind is edible and adds a mushroomy, buttery lift that frames the creamy paste.
Duet stands on its own, but the right partners turn a wedge into a moment. Regional pairings first — they were built for each other.
Bubbles and bright acidity cut the cream and lift the lactic goat tang, keeping each bite fresh.
Soft honey and ripe fruit echo the sweet cream side of the blend, while a scatter of almonds gives the buttery paste something to lean on.
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