Burgundian washed rind with pungent aroma and spoonable, buttery paste.
Washed-rind cow's milk cheese from Burgundy, France. Sticky orange rind, spoonable paste, pungent nose with a sweet Marc de Bourgogne pull. Order online.
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Soumaintrain Berthaut is a washed-rind cow's milk cheese from Burgundy, France, made by the Berthaut family in Époisses, the same town that gave the better-known Époisses its name. This is the quieter, slightly younger cousin in the family of Burgundian washed rinds, but it carries the same pedigree.
The rind is sticky and orange, washed in brine and Marc de Bourgogne, the local pomace brandy, which is what builds that aromatic pull and the sweet edge underneath the funk. The paste shifts as the cheese ripens. Young, it stays a little chalky in the center with a soft buttery cream line under the rind. Give it time and the whole interior turns spoonable, almost liquid, and the flavor opens up into something savory, buttery, and faintly sweet from the brandy wash. Properly ripe, this is a cheese you eat with a spoon.
The nose is pungent, classic washed-rind territory, but the palate is gentler than you might expect, more mushroomy than aggressive. There's a lot of Burgundy in the glass and on the plate that wants exactly this cheese next to it.
Soft and yielding, with a paste that runs from lightly chalky in the center when young to spoonable and nearly liquid under the rind as it ripens.
Pungent on the nose, then softer on the palate, savory and buttery with a sweet pull underneath from the Marc de Bourgogne wash.
A long savory finish that lingers, salty and earthy from the washed rind with a sweet edge that holds on after the swallow.
Buttery and cream-forward through the paste, with a fresh dairy sweetness that softens the rind's pungency.
A quiet brown butter note rounding out the middle, more buttery than nutty.
Mushroomy and vegetal from the brine-washed rind, with a damp cellar quality that reads as classic Burgundian washed-rind.
A faint warmth from the brandy wash on the back of the palate, not piquant.
Washed rind
Sticky orange rind washed in brine and Marc de Bourgogne, aromatic and pungent. Edible, and it's where most of the savory, earthy character lives.
Soumaintrain stands on its own, but the right partners turn a wedge into a moment. Regional pairings first — they were built for each other.
The same Burgundian wines and brandy that flavor the wash work back with the cheese. Chablis and Champagne cut the richness, while a glass of Marc closes the loop with the rind itself.
Soft fruit and a drizzle of honey balance the salt and funk of the rind. A slice of walnut bread gives the spoonable paste something to sit on.
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“Custodians of the Époisses tradition — they're credited with reviving the AOC recipe in the 1950s by collecting technique from the last farmhouse makers, and they've held the reference standard for washed-rind Burgundy ever since.”
Repeated hand-washing of the rind with brine and Marc de Bourgogne over four to six weeks in humid Burgundian cellars.
Packed cold for overnight delivery.
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